A Deep Dive into SAGA Professional's Hard Gels

In the world of nail artistry, precision and product quality are paramount. From the heart of Ukraine, SAGA Professional has established itself as a go-to brand for nail masters, known for its commitment to high-quality, durable, and innovative gel systems.

While their gel polishes are stunning, today we are taking a deep dive into the SAGA Hard Gel System—the backbone of strength, architecture, and long-lasting extensions. But before we build, we must prep! The ideal canvas for these superior products is created using the meticulous Russian Manicure technique. Unfamiliar? 

What is a Russian manicure and how is it performed?

Russian Manicure Prep

 

The Russian Manicure is a dry technique that utilizes an electric file (E-file) and specialized bits to meticulously clean and exfoliate the cuticle and nail plate, providing a flawlessly clean canvas and allowing for the closest possible product application.

Step	Tool/Product	Action
1. Initial Prep	File (180 Grit)	Shape the nail and gently remove surface shine from the natural nail plate.
2. Cuticle Work	E-file Bits (Flame, Ball)	Use a thin diamond Flame bit to gently lift the cuticle and clean the dead skin (the cuticle itself) from the nail plate. Use a Ball bit to polish and smooth the skin around the proximal fold.
3. Removal	Nippers/Scissors	Carefully snip away the exposed, dry, dead skin, leaving a perfectly clean line. (Use caution; this step requires training.)
4. Dehydrate & Prime	Dehydrator, Primer	Apply a nail Dehydrator to remove surface oils and moisture, followed by a thin layer of Primer (acid-free is often preferred for gels) to ensure superior adhesion.
5. Base Coat	Rubber Base (or thin layer of builder)	Apply a thin, scrub-like layer of a flexible Base Coat and cure fully. This is the crucial adhesion layer for your hard gel structure.

 

SAGA Hard Gels

 

SAGA offers a versatile range of hard gels designed for every structural need, from simple reinforcement to complex, long-nail extensions. Hard gels are non-soak-off gels that provide superior strength and must be filed off for removal.

 

1. Liquid Gel (Self-Leveling Reinforcement)

Product Use: A low-viscosity, self-leveling gel ideal for strengthening short to medium-length natural nails or small repairs. For longer nails, it should be used in conjunction with a more rigid builder gel.

Tutorial: Natural Nail Overlay

1. Prep: Complete the Russian Manicure and apply a cured Base Coat.

2. Application: Pick up a small bead of Liquid Gel and place it near the cuticle.

3. Floating: Use the brush to gently float the gel down the nail, allowing its self-leveling nature to create a smooth surface and a slight apex (arch).

4. Cure: Flash cure (5-10 seconds) to set the structure before it runs, then full cure for 60 seconds (LED/UV).

5. Finish: Cleanse the sticky layer, lightly buff for perfection if needed, and apply your color and Top Coat.

 

2. Pastel Builder (Medium-Viscosity Builder)

Product Use: This is your versatile, mid-consistency gel—thicker than Liquid Gel but thinner than Veil. It's self-leveling and perfect for strengthening, building, and repairing medium-length nails and short extensions on forms.

Tutorial: Building a Short Extension on a Form

1. Form Fit: Apply and perfectly fit a nail form under the prepped, base-coated free edge.

2. Foundation Layer: Apply a thin layer of Pastel Builder over the entire nail and extended form area and flash cure.

3. Apex Build: Scoop a medium bead of gel and place it at the stress area (center) of the nail. Guide the gel toward the cuticle and free edge, ensuring the highest point (the apex) is in the center for strength.

4. Sculpt & Cure: Perfect the structure, check the side view, and full cure for 60 seconds.

5. Shape: Remove the form. Cleanse the tacky layer, then file the sidewalls and free edge to the desired shape, perfecting the C-curve and surface.

 

3. Veil Builder (High-Control Builder)

Product Use: A workhorse builder gel for extensions, modeling, strengthening, and repair of any nail length. Its crucial feature is its ability to hold shape, making it excellent for upper forms and maintaining a crisp, square corner and a well-defined arch.

Tutorial: Application with Upper Forms

1. Prep: Complete prep and apply a cured Base Coat.

2. Gel Application: Apply a bead of Veil Builder inside the upper form, distributing the product based on the nail length you desire (more gel at the apex area, less at the edges).

3. Press & Cure: Press the form onto the natural nail plate (be careful to avoid bubbles and spillage). Cure while holding the form in place for 5-10 seconds, then full cure for 60 seconds.

4. Release & Refine: Carefully pop the upper form off. Cleanse the tacky layer. File the free edge and any overflow under the nail or around the cuticle area.

 

4. Stiff Gel (The Hardest Structure)

Product Use: This is SAGA's hardest series gel, offering maximum control and durability. It is perfect for repairs, long forms, and extreme extensions. Its minimal self-leveling and high control make it ideal for applying on just 1/3 of the nail (for repairs) or when creating a durable, architectural edge, holding a corner even with a thickness as fine as 0.5 mm.

Tutorial: Long Nail Extension/Architectural Sculpture

1. Base: Complete prep, Base Coat, and fit a long sculpting form.

2. Free Edge Skeleton: Use a small amount of Stiff Gel to create the thin skeleton of your desired free edge shape (the side walls and the tip line) and flash cure.

3. Apex Build: Using a brush, pick up a controlled bead of Stiff Gel and sculpt the apex area. Because this gel barely moves, you must manually guide the structure into place, building a strong, stress-resistant arch.

4. Cure & File: Full cure for 60-120 seconds. Remove the form. Cleanse the tacky layer and utilize your E-file and hand files to perfect the structure, ensuring a strong, thin, and symmetrical finish.

SAGA Specialty Tops

No SAGA service is complete without their revolutionary Top Coats, which seal the deal and define the look. They offer exceptional durability and unique finishes.

SAGA Top Coat	Key Feature	Final Look
Top Titanium	Maximum Gloss & Durability	High-shine, scratch-resistant, mirror-like finish (often a No-Wipe formula).
Top Velvet	Texture-Changing Matte	Transforms color underneath into a luxurious, soft, velvety matte texture.
Top Powder	Milky Haze Effect	A translucent, milky white filter that creates a diffused, trending "milky wash" effect over any color.
Top Crush/Geometry	Decorative Flakes	Clear top coats pre-mixed with colorful flakes, confetti, or geometric shapes for instant, unique nail art.

 

Specialty Top Coat Tutorial

1. Clean Surface: Ensure your cured color or buffed hard gel is free of dust.

2. Application: Apply a thin, even layer of your desired SAGA Top Coat over the entire nail structure, capping the free edge.

3. Cure: Full cure according to the lamp specifications (typically 60-120 seconds LED/UV).

4. Final Step: If using a Top Coat with a sticky inhibition layer, cleanse it gently. Finish with high-quality cuticle oil to hydrate the meticulously prepared skin.

SAGA Professional truly offers the architecture a professional needs. By mastering the meticulous Russian Manicure and pairing it with the precise control of their hard gels, you are equipped to create durable, flawless, and beautiful nails every single time.

Want to know more about hard gels in general? Check out The Ultimate Guide to Hard Gels