Guide to nail drill bits: Russian manicure

by Anastasia Julia

In the world of nail art and manicures, having the right tools is essential for achieving professional-quality results. Nail drill bits play a crucial role in shaping, filing, and getting your nails perfect. With so many bits available, it can be overwhelming to know which ones are best for different techniques and applications. That's why we've created this guide to nail drill bits. We hope to help you master your Russian manicure with carbide and diamond bits. Regardless if you're a beginner or a seasoned nail technician, this guide will provide you with the knowledge and expertise needed to elevate your nails to the next level.

Always seek professional training before beginning to work with nail drill bits.

Nail drill bits use in Russian manicure also known as dry manicure

Russian manicure has gained immense popularity in the U.S. recent years due to its excellent results. This technique involves the use of specialized nail drill bits, particularly carbide and diamond bits, to achieve the perfect cuticles and beautiful nail shapes you have seen.

Carbide bits are best known for removing gel polish, shaping nails, and specialty bits for rhinestones. Their sharp cutting allow for control, while their durability ensures that they can withstand frequent use without losing their effectiveness.

On the other hand, diamond bits are renowned for their exceptional performance in removing cuticles, smoothing uneven nail surfaces, and refining nail edges. Their abrasiveness and ability to quickly remove dead skin make them a part of a must have nail tools kit for achieving that clean flawless look that has come to be expected with Russian nails.

By understanding the importance of using certain nail drill bits in for specific applications during a Russian manicure, you can confidently choose the right tool for each step of the process. In the following sections, we will explain more about the various types of carbide and diamond bits, what they are used for, and how to properly use and maintain them. Next we will discuss these essential nail tools, and help you to elevate your Russian manicure to new heights.

The difference between carbide and diamond bits

Now that we have established the importance of nail drill bits in Russian manicure, it is important to understand the difference between two popular types of bits: carbide and diamond.

Carbide drill bits, as mentioned earlier, are known for gel polish removal, and shaping. They are also known for their strength and longevity. They are often made from a mix of tungsten and carbon, creating strong and long-lasting nail tools. These bits have sharp cutting edges that allow for easy removal of polish and shaping of artificial nails. Their strength allows them to be used for extended periods without losing their effectiveness.


Before you start working with carbide bits understand that they are powerful tools that can cause injury. Seek professional training before using any bits but especially understanding that staying in one place for too long or applying to much pressure with a carbide bit can cause serious injury and damage to the nail plate. Use slow smooth strokes to while removing gel nail polish and shaping the nail.

Diamond drill bits are known for lifting and removing cuticles and refining nail edges. They are made with fine diamond particles embedded in a strong metal base, giving them incredible abrasiveness. This enables them to quickly remove dead skin cells and create a clean and flawless look.

Diamond and carbide bits both come in different grit types which are very important when you are selecting the tool for the job. The most common grit types are soft (red), medium (blue) and coarse (green). It is best for anyone taking classes or just learning to opt for softer grits to avoid injury and damage.

It's also worth noting that both carbide and diamond drill bits come in various shapes and sizes. Different shapes serve different purposes, so it's crucial to have a variety of bits in your nail supplies. For example, cone-shaped bits are ideal for removing dead skin around the cuticles, while barrel bits are perfect for smoothing and shaping the nail surface.

Diamond nail drill bits

Diamond bits are a popular choice for professionals due to their ability to effortlessly remove dead skin, and cuticles. The diamond coating not only adds to ease of use but also ensures longevity, making it a worthwhile investment if you go with professional nail drill bits.

These bits come in various grit sizes, ranging from fine to coarse. For delicate tasks such as cuticle removal, opt for a fine-grit diamond bit to minimize the risk of damaging the natural nails. For shaping and refining nails, consider using a medium to coarse grit, depending on what exactly you are doing..

When using diamond bits, it's crucial to maintain a light touch and let the tool do the work. Applying excessive pressure can lead to heat build-up or removing too much skin, causing discomfort to your client. Allow the diamond bit to glide across the surface of the nail or cuticle, effortlessly removing any imperfections.

Remember, practice makes perfect. Experiment with different diamond bits and techniques to find the ones that work best for you. We always recommend ball and flame shapes as this is the classic shapes to be used. However many techs now prefer a flat cone to work on the nail plate and cuticle at the same time. Shape and grit are all about preference. With patience and dedication, you'll soon become an expert in using diamond drill bits for Russian manicures.

Proper maintenance of your drill bits

Now that you have perfected your Russian manicures with both carbide and diamond drill bits, it's important to understand the proper maintenance and care techniques to ensure the longevity and effectiveness of your nail tools.

First and foremost, it is crucial to clean your drill bits after each use. Using a small brush, gently scrub away any debris or product buildup that may have accumulated. Ensure that you remove any residue from the grooves and edges of the bits to maintain their sharpness. Also, a hypersonic cleaner is recommended to remove any excess skin that a brush is unable to remove.

Next, sanitize your drill bits by soaking them in a disinfectant solution. If you are using barbicide do not let them sit for too long as this can cause damage. This will help eliminate any bacteria that may have been transferred during use.

From her you should add them to a heat treatment. We use autoclaves at our salon for every tool after every service. This ensures that each client is getting a fresh tool that is clean and sterilized after every use which is best practice to not have any infections.

You should also inspect your drill bits for any signs of wear or damage. If you notice any chips, cracks, or dulled edges, it is time to replace the bit. Using damaged bits can not only compromise the quality of your manicures but also pose a risk of injury to your clients.

Practice on yourself

Like any skill, Russian manicure requires practice to achieve perfection. The more you practice, the more comfortable and confident you will become in using the drill bits. Set aside dedicated time in your schedule to practice different techniques, such as cuticle cleaning and surface filing. Experiment with different speeds and pressures on yourself to find what works best for you and your clients.