Getting familiar with a Russian manicure
The criteria for a nail master constantly change and are becoming more stringent. It was a short time ago it was difficult to find courses on how to perform a manicure with a nail drill. Today a master who does not perform them or at minimum use combined techniques is losing demand for services. It is important for every beginner to understand step by step how a Russian manicure is performed, because the work itself does not appear very complicated, but without proper skill the result is likely to be less desirable.
A Russian manicure, also called a dry manicure, is a manicure in which a special machine (nail drill or efile) is used. The machine has the main unit, on which all the controls are located, and a hand piece where small nail drill bits fit into which one uses to perform the work with. When the device is turned on at high speed, an abrasive bit rotates, which performs the work of removing gel nail polish and cutting the cuticle.
Important advantages of a Russian manicure
- The manicure is done on dry hands, no pre-soaking, also known as “steaming” is required. This has benefits - wet skin will not be cut off but will stretch and wind around the bit.
- The tool is universal, it is used in almost all aspects of the manicure. Depending on the selected bits and the rotation speed, the nail drill can remove the previous gel, remove excess skin of the cuticle and side ridges, clean the plate, adjust the length of the nail, remove the arch during extensions and polish the nails when finished.
- The processing of the nail is faster than a classic trimmed manicure with nippers and files.
- Thanks to the nail drill, the removal of cuticle is even, this minimizes the risk of hangnails. This fact allows the nails to look well-groomed longer.
- All nail drill bits are designed to be sterilized. It is very important that after every used bits are sanitized and sterilized.
A Russian manicure does have a few drawbacks, but they are mostly relevant for beginners and those who decide to use a nail drill at home. Without proper knowledge and undeveloped skills, there is a high risk of damaging the nail plate by making a cut too deep. The bits rotate very quickly and too much pressure on the nail or staying in one place to long is dangerous. Please get training before attempting to work with these machines.
Who can and who have a Russian manicure performed on them
As with any beauty service, a dry manicure has its limitations. You need to refuse this method when:
- If there are any signs of fungal infections.
- Skin injuries where a manicure is to be performed.
- Thinned or damaged nail plate.
For hands that are in rough shape, it is recommended to go with a more traditional manicure using cuticle nippers or scissors. Most of the time performing a Russian manicure is a great solution to speed up the process and improve the finished product. The nail drill is perfect for clients with healthy nails and skin. A dry manicure is recommended in for the following:
- fast growing, dense cuticle
- uneven nail plates
- discoloration of the nail due to external influences
What you need for a Russian manicure
To start a Russian manicure, you need to have the necessary tools. The list is not cheap, but if you buy quality, they will last you for a long time to come.
- The nail drill itself. There are a lot of cost options here, ranging from cheaply made efiles all the way up to professional. They also range in rotation speed as well as additional functions. If you are a professional going cheap on your tools is not recommended. For a beginner doing their nails at home more affordable options are available however you will likely have far less power and be disappointed. Separately, it is worth noting the efile without the main power unit have little power and if you are planning to use gel polish, they won’t work in a salon or at home.
- Nail drill bits. This category of products is very large, from different shapes, sizes to different grit types. Some of the most important factors when choosing which bit to use:
- Carbide drill bits - with low quality will not remove the gel nail polish or builder gel from the nail. With carbide bits it is also recommended to start with softer grits until you are trained and comfortable using them. Using a carbide bit that is to coarse can lead to injury.
- Diamond drill bits- strong and durable. Used for cuticle lifting and removal. The most popular shapes of these bits are flame, ball and cone. Always go with professional drill bits even if you are performing your manicure at home. Low quality bits can cause pain and poor removal of the cuticle.
- Ceramic drill bits - one of the favorite options for masters for removing gel polish and builder gels from the plate. They do not get to hot and are easy to clean after performing work. One downside is that they can go dull a bit quicker than a metal carbide.
- Silicon, metal, or sand cap carbide bits - used specifically in pedicures for removing callouses. A lot of nail techs have moved on to pedicure discs for removing callous. A simple disc that takes an adhesive pad that allows you to cover more space quicker.
- Silicone or felt buffer bits – Have fine abrasive for polishing and buffing the nail.
- Cuticle pusher or orange sticks – these tools are helpful to lift the cuticle from the nail plate. Pushers are reusable and subject to sterilization, and the second is considered disposable and reliable. It is great to have both for different requirements and needs.
- A larger brush to remove dust – make sure that it is soft. You will use this to remove excess dust as you go throughout the manicure.
- Nail files – Used to adjust the shape of the nail.
- Cuticle oil or lotion to moisturize the hand and cuticles after the manicure is completed.
It is also recommended that you have a nail dust collector, especially if you are working with multiple clients. When performing a Russian manicure, a large amount of dust goes into the air without a dust collector. Make sure that while removing gel polish and the dust is in the air you have a removal device in a well-ventilated area. These small details are one more reason we recommend. Taking a class on How to perform a Russian manicure from a trusted instructor with experience.
How to perform a dry manicure
For safety while using any equipment, it is important to receive training and study the rules for working with these nail tools. Here are a few rules to follow:
- Do not start at maximum speed, especially in the beginning of learning. If you are uncertain about high speeds it is better to start from a the minimum and then gradually increase the speed if necessary.
- Do not hold the working part of a nail drill bit in one place. Constant slow movements.
- Do not apply heavy pressure on to the working part to any part of the finger. While learning apply light pressure and rework the area if it is required. It is better to take your time than cause injury.
- The working part of the drill bit should be parallel to the area you will work on.
- Moving in the opposite direction the nail drill is rotating. If the bit is rotating clockwise to the right, then move directionally to the left. Most drills have a reverse function that allows you to choose the direction you wish to perform the manicure. You must follow this rule or the hand piece will naturally drift.
Step-by-step instruction for a Russian manicure:
Preparing the nail and removing the old gel polish
First have clients wash their hands and treat them with an antiseptic. This will simply remove bacteria and help prevent any infection. If building extensions remove any excess nail that with nail clippers, no reason to add extra work. If you will backfill builder gel or base, remove all the topcoat and gel polish. If clipping excess nails don’t worry about the shape yet just remove the extra length. For nail extensions, it is recommended to use a medium grit ceramic or carbide nail drill bit. If you are still newer start with a softer grit until you get more comfortable. Natural nails can be back filled.
After the previous polish and builder has been removed, you can assess the condition of the nails. If the nails had no breaks, cracks or chips then you can create the desired nail shape.
How to remove cuticle with diamond bits
The next step in the process is to cut the cuticles and get the nail ready for gel nail polish. It is recommended to use soft grit drill bits for most skin types. Follow these steps to get beautiful Russian nails:
- Lightly separate the cuticle from the nail with a pusher or orange stick.
- Use a flame bit to gently lift the cuticle and clean the surface of the nail.
- Continue to use the flame bit to clean the sinus of the nail.
- At this point of the manicure switch to a ball shaped bit and begin to remove the already raised cuticle. The position of the bit on this step is important. The ball should be perpendicular to the cuticle you are removing and the hand the hand piece fixed in the hand. During removal, a nail master manipulates the client’s finger, and does not move the handpiece to get position. The movement should clearly repeat the shape of the cuticle and only touch skin, without affecting the nail.
- After cuticle removal the nail is buffed and polished with buff drill bits. If a client wants gel polish or extension, then the processing continues.
- Before applying the gel base, it is necessary to remove all dust from the surface of the nail with a brush.
When the manicure is completed, use cuticle oil to give the hands a neat look and moisturize the skin.
Always sanitize and sterilize tools after
When you complete the manicure, all reusable drill bits and nail tools must sanitized and sterilized before next use. The first step is physical dust removal from the bits. When filing, the grooves on the bits can become clogged. It is best to use a soap and water solution with a brush then put them into a ultra sonic cleaner.
After that is done you want to use a disinfectant with special solutions. Do not over soak your tools, a proper solution should only take 15 to 20 minutes maximum. From there you move onto either dry heat sterilization or use an autoclave. Leave your tools in the pouches until your next use. Proper cleaning of the tool allows you to extend its service life, and therefore save your own resources.
A Russian manicure itself is not complicated, it is quite possible to master it on your own. The main rule is not to overdo it in order to prevent overcuts. Theoretical data for high quality processing is not enough, experience and a thorough practical study of the nuances are needed. To make the perfect cuticles, experience will also be required, but during the first attempts to perform this style of manicure, it will become clear which types of bits are more comfortable to use.
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